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Περί φωτογραφικών μηχανών, φακών και λοιπών αξεσουάρ


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οχι dolly

ετσι οπως τα λες 200-400-800-1600

Τουλαχιστον οι επιλογες σε M / S / A /

σε αυτοματο ειχε πει μια φορα ο racer οτι παιρνει και ενδιαμεσες τιμες αλλα απο μονη της η μηχανη και οχι να δινεται η δυνατοτητα προς τον χρηστη

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Αρα ίδια με την παλιά μου την 50άρα η φάση, απλά εγώ δεν είχα το Η1 (3200) για ευνόητους λόγους...

Πάντος στο auto θα μπορείς να θέσεις το MaxISO to use, οπότε να μην σε σκοτώνει.

Πάρτε και μια παράθεση απο τον thom για τον θορυβο της D60.

The D60 produces decent noise results under pretty severe conditions (including my usual mixed lighting with low intensity torture test). At ISOs up through 400 you'd have to be really good at pixel peeping to see any differences. At ISO 800, some minimal luminance noise shows up. At ISO 1600 that luminance noise is probably visible to most people at 100% view, and a bit of chroma noise starts to appear. Amazingly, the D60 still does better than the D80 in the noise department while using the same sensor, apparently due to improvements in the noise reduction function--the level of detail is slightly lower at ISO 1600 on the D60 than it is on the D80. Overall, ISO 100 to 1600 produced very usable images. ISO HI-1 (3200) is not usable, in my opinion. You lose color saturation, acuity (due to noise at edges), and the chroma (color) aspect of the noise is now highly visible.

My general recommendation is don't be afraid to set Auto ISO to a max of 800 and shoot away. If you really need ISO 1600, set it manually and use it for the session you need it for, then revert to your normal ISO or Auto ISO to 800.

As I indicated in earlier reviews, I'm getting more leery of "number oriented" assessments of image quality properties like noise. That's because I have seen too many examples where an actual image from a camera with a "higher noise number" actually looks better than the supposedly superior camera. Put another way: raw noise numbers don't tell you a lot, which is why I've stopped publishing large tables of them. Since a lot of newcomers are probably reading this due to the low-end appeal of the D60, I need to elaborate.

The way we measure noise is by looking at large patches of the same color and looking at (adjacent) pixel value differences. In theory, the pixels all ought to be the same value, since adjacent pixels are reproductions from the same patch of color under the same lighting. Even on the best camera there is some minor pixel-to-pixel variation, though it may not always be visible to the naked eye, as the difference can be very small. The variations, however, can be in many forms. First, they can simply be overall intensity variations ("luminance noise"). Luminance noise tends to look a bit like film grain did: a pebbly texture is imparted on the image. Second, they can be color variations, which we call "chroma noise." Chroma noise has a very artificial look, almost as if a pointalist painter was at work dappling each pixel with a different color paint (unfortunately, unlike Serat and the other pointalists, chroma noise always comes in the same colors, not ones selected to impart an artistic or visual effect). Third, noise can have a "size." Two adjacent pixels may be the same but the third is different; or three adjacent ones are the same but the fourth is different. In JPEG files, such noise sizing can be variable and is usually due to camera's de-mosaic (image rendering) routine and JPEG encoding crudity, and further to any interaction between those. Nikon's cameras tend to fairly free of size variations. Fourth, noise can have a pattern. Indeed, digital cameras have pixels aligned in rows and columns while film had overlapping and random grain patterns. If there's an electronics frequency-related issue to the noise production (e.g. jitter in the analog-to-digital conversion circuitry), patterns easily appear in noise samples of digital cameras. The D60 noise doesn't really seem to have much pattern to it. Fifth, noise can and does interact with detail production, and noise reduction techniques can produce anything from watercolor-type effects (vagueness) on detail to what I simply call "mush." Nikon's in-camera noise reduction is slightly destructive of edge detail, and unlike the higher end cameras, you can't adjust how much noise reduction it will do. I could go on, but you get the idea: noise is a variety of deviations from the desired data.

And some of those deviations are more visible and disturbing to our eyes than others. Take luminance and color noise, for example. Color noise is easily seen while luminance noise generally isn't (unless it has a pattern ;~). Indeed, color noise is a dead giveaway for "digital" images, as there is really no corresponding problem in analog (film) recording. Bad color noise is disturbing visually because a block of color suddenly has impurities of prime colors (red, green, blue) in it.

I've just alluded to two of the five types of noise the D60 could have. So how does it do on all five? Excellent, Very Good, Excellent, Excellent, and Very Good, actually. At high sharpening settings and low JPEG qualities, the noise size issue starts to just inch into visibility, but otherwise I'd say the D60 is visually non-disturbing in its noise tendencies. So let's put that assertion to the visual test. I've been using the gym I play basketball in as my test lab for low-light, high-ISO, weird light color images in reviews for awhile now, so I'll step out of the game for a moment and take a few shots for us to look at.

d60bball1600.jpg

Here's actual pixels at ISO 1600 with noise reduction off and all other settings at default (yes, it's a bit soft, probably because VR was set to Active and shouldn't have been; but that doesn't change the noise and contrast handling things we're really looking for here). There's evidence of noise everywhere, though most of it is not colored and looks somewhat like film grain. You can see some color noise starting to apear (note the net, which should be plain white), but it's not objectionable enough to worry about--in prints you're not going to see that, though you might note some color drift. For example, the ball is appearing a little more orange than it actually is, mostly due to color noise. Also, colors are starting to block up. The rim is a darker tone that it actually is. Many of these things you can do something about. Turning on noise reduction reduces the color noise well, for example. I'd also consider adjusting Tone Compensation and Color Mode. Finally, since colors tend to darken, I'd watch exposure. This image is ever so slightly underexposed, something that the Nikon matrix meters all seem to do consistently in this gym. [if you're asking why I use defaults and automation--other than turning off noise reduction--rather than optimizing settings in these examples, it's because I'm trying to show what is near worst case.]

d60bball3200.jpg

At ISO 3200 (HI-1) note that a number of things have happened. First, noise is much more visible an dnow definitely has color patterns in it that make the image very "digital." Colors have shifted (I've changed nothing on the camera other than ISO). We're losing color in the ball and rim. This image, however, is about the worst one I could make with the D60 in my gym. Frankly, I was a little surprised that is wasn't worse. So let's run it through Nik Define (noise removal), Nik Sharpener, and fix the white level and see what happens:

d60bball3200edit.jpg

Not bad. We've got the usual painterly look at the pixel level that happens when you run both noise reduction and sharpening at strong levels, but remember we're looking at what would be a 2.3" by 2.3" patch of a much larger print. On my monitor, these images appear about three times bigger than that. Again, doing some things prior to shooting would improve this even more (use noise reduction in camera, don't let the camera underexpose any, pick better Image Optimization settings).

Let me put all this another way: most users can use ISO 100 to 1600 (and therefore the Auto ISO function, certainly set to ISO 800 max) with relative impunity. The two things that would restrict you are: (1) the slightly reduced dynamic range and slightly visible color noise at ISO 1600 means that you really don't want to use high ISO values for things like high contrast scenes, such as outdoor scenics in bright light; and (2) you probably want to avoid high sharpening and contrast settings at high ISO values if you're going to print large.

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Ήρθε η ώρα να κάνω μια μικρή αναβάθμιση στον φακό της 450D μου...

Σκέφτομαι να δώσω τον EF 18-55IS του κιτ και να πάρω αυτον εδώ...:

Tamron SP 17-50/2.8 DI II

Ξεκινάμε απο το αν είναι πιο οξύς απο αυτόν που έχω... Και ρωτάω γιατι βαση ορισμένων site, ο 18-55 του κιτ ειναι αρκετά οξύς, ισως λιγο περισσότερο απο τον Ταμρον που σκέφτομαι να αγοράσω. Ισχύει;

Δευτερόν, υπάρχει κατι καλύτερο σε αυτά τα λεφτά +- 50€...; Ισως ο Sigma 18-50/2.8 EX DC Macro;

Thanks all.

κυριε κυριε κυριε ...να πω??

Για αρχη θα πρεπει να μαθεις για ποιο λογο ψαχνεις να αλλαξεις φακο.

Τι ψαχνεις απο τον νεο (?),τι σου λειπει απο τον υπαρχον?

Το ειπα και σε αλλο ποστ..

Αν ψαχνεις διαφραγμα δες τους 24-70 απο σιγμα-ταμρον.(ταμρον 28-75).

Εναλλακτικα δες τον νεο σιγμα 17-70mm φ2.8-4 OS HSM.

Δεν ξερω τι και πως φωτογραφιζεις..αλλα πρεπει να εισαι διατεθιμενος να βαλεις το χερι βαθια στην τσεπη για αντικαταστατη των νεων kit φακων canon-nikon 18-55 is-vr.

Nαι μεν θα σου δωσουν το κατι παραπανω οι 3 φακοι που προανεφερα απο τον κιτ φακο...αλλα μονο εσυ και ο τροπος που τους χειριζεσαι θα δειξει αν θα σου προσφερουν το κατι παραπανω.

Σαν εναλλακτικοι φακοι παντως τους βλεπω μια χαρα.

(λιγο πιο πανω στεκει και ο 24-105 F4 L IS οπου το με το ευρος του 8α μπορεις να παιζεις σχεδον παντου και παντα.

Για all around, καλη λυση @650Ε περιπου)

Αν ξερει τι χρειαζεσαι τι σου λειπει και τι φωτογραφιζεις συνηθως...πες αν ειναι να κανoυμε καμμια καλυτερη προσεγγιση.

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Για τα παντα ολα κοιτας σε canon-nikon*.

Aπλα αν δεν εισαι διατεθιμενος να δινεις 1.5Κ για τον καθε φακο κοιτας και τα αλλα :p

*(εκτος αν μιλαμε για κατι special φακουδακια leica,zeiss,voigtlander αλλα και αυτοι στο 1.5Κ και πανω κανουν με εξαιρεση μερικους @500-800Ε)

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Είμαι κι εγώ σε σκέψεις για άλλο φακό, τώρα είμαι με τον stock 18-55 τον απλό. Αρχικά έλεγα να τσιμπήσω τον 55-200 VR, αλλά σκέφτομαι ότι ίσως κουράζει η αλλαγή φακού και κλίνω προς τον 18-105 VR για πιο all around. Επίσης, καλή περίπτωση μου φαίνεται και ο 18-135 αλλά δεν είναι VR.

Καμιά άλλη πρόταση με max τα 250ε?

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Αυριο λέω να περάσω απο Κατερελο να παρω μια μπαταρια εξτρα.

Σκέφτηκα να αγοράσω και ενα blower για τη σκόνη.

Αυτο εδω αξιζει τιποτα ?

για να διώξεις τίποτα σκόνες από τον καθρέφτη καλό είναι..για τον αισθητήρα πάρε swabs από το ebay και εφάρμοσε την μέθοδο του Πέτρου (στέγνωμα, εμποτισμός με καθαρό οινόπνευμα και μετά καθάρισμα)

Δυστυχώς το συγκεκριμένο Σάββατο είμαι πίτα πηγμένος από το πρωί. Κυριακή κάτι γίνεται, αλλά προς το μεσημεράκι, την ώρα που θα είμαι στη δουλειά και πάλι :p

Αν είναι να κανονίσουμε και όποιος θέλει έρχεται, δίνω για δοκιμή την d60 να σας φύγουν και οι απορίες για το ISO :p

καμια καθημερινή παίζει;

btw, αν ειναι να φέρω και την δική μου d60 να δούμε ποιανού είναι καλύτερη :hehe:

Ζανή ο 50άρης θα τον ερωτευτείς!

ω, ναι..δεν έχω την παραμικρή αμφιβολία :inlove:

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Αν μπορεις γραψε το link γιατι δεν το εχω. :)

Σαν εξτρα αγορα το blower πως το βλεπεις?

http://cgi.ebay.com/6pcs-17mm-D-SLR-CMOS-CCD-Sensor-Cleaner-SWAB-Wet-BF06_W0QQitemZ280451727319QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDigital_Camera_Accessories?hash=item414c39bfd7

(ο συγκεκριμένος πωλητής είναι και αξιοπιστος, έχω πάρει κάμποσα πραματάκια απο αυτόν)

edit: δεν ανοίγουμε καλύτερα ένα νέο θέμα για την συνάντηση όπου ο καθένας θα γράψει πότε μπορεί και τι έχει να φέρει μαζί αναλυτικά ;

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